CONTENTS.

* The Table of Contents begins on page 297. It has been copied to the front of the book for the convenience of the reader.*

COLONIAL HISTORY OF LOUISIANA, WITH HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

Introduction.... v

Memoir of Sieur Cavalier de la Salle, addressed to Monseigneur de Seignelay:translated from the French, with notes.... [1]

Official account of M de la Salle's exploration of the Mississippi (Colbert) River to its mouth, 1682: translated from the French, with notes.... [17]

Historical Journal of the Expedition ordered by the King of France, under the command of M. Pierre Le Moyne d'Iberville, in 1698, to take possession of and colonize Louisiana; with an account of the numerous Indian tribes of that country: translated (and printed for the first time) from a copy of the original manuscript, with notes.... 31

Addenda.--Historical summary.... 116

Note.--Biographical sketch of M. P. Le Moyne d'Iberville.... 31

Note.--Extract from a letter addressed to Father Jean de Lamberville, by Father Jacques Gravier, who descended the Colbert (Mississippi) River to meet M. d'Iberville, Governor-General, on his arrival to take possession of Louisiana.... 79

Memoir (Procés verbal) of the taking possession of the country of the Upper Mississippi, in the name of the King of France, 1689.... [122]

Historical memoir sent by Louis XIV., King of France, to M. de Denonville, Governor-General of New France, 1668, with notes.... 124

Note.--Biographical sketch of Sieur Louis Joliet, one of the explorers of the Mississippi River, 1672.... 139

Note.--Letter from Louis de Buade, Comte de Frontenac, Governor-General, to M. Colbert, 1674, on the exploration of the Mississippi as far as the Arkansas River, by Father Marquette and Sieur Joliet.... 140

COLONIAL HISTORY OF FLORIDA, WITH HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

Introduction.... 145

Note.--Letter from Don Christopher Columbus to Don Luis de Santangel on his first discoveries, 1493..... 145

Proclamation of Pamfilo de Narvaez, Governor-General, to the inhabitants (Indians) of the Provinces of Florida, 1527.... 153

Note.--Extract from the memoir of De las Casas on the barbarous treatment of the Indians of Florida by the Spaniards.... 156

Narrative of the first voyage made by Captain Jean de Ribault, by order of Charles IX., King of France, to take possession of, and found a colony of French Protestants (Huguenots), in Florida, 1562: with notes.... 159

Note.--Biographical sketch of Gaspard de Coligny, Grand Admiral of France.... 160

Note.--Historical Summary.... 189

Memoir of the Spanish Expedition made by order of Philip II., in 1565, under the command of Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles, to take possession of, and colonize the eastern coast of Florida, and to expel the French Protestants (Huguenots), established there in 1564, by Francisco Lopez de Mendoza Grajales, chaplain of the expedition translated from the French, with notes.... 191

Note.--Narrative by Don Solis de las Meras, of the massacre of the shipwrecked French colonists, and officers and men of the expedition sent out under the command of Captain Ribault, in 1565, to reinforce the colony: translated from the Spanish, with notes.... 216

Note.--Letter from Pope Pius V. to Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles, on the expulsion of the French colonists, in 1565, from Florida, on his return to Spain.... 222

Note.--Roman Catholic missions and missionaries in Florida.... 230

Memoir on the country and ancient Indian tribes of Florida, by Hernando d'Escalante Fontanedo: translated fiom the French translation of the original memoir, with notes.... 235

Note.--Extract from the narratives of Guido de las Bazares and Don Angel de la Villafine, describing the bays and ports of the east and west coasts of Florida: translated from the French translation of the original memoirs, 1559.... 236

Historical summary and geographical account of the early voyages and explorations of the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic coast of Florida, by the French and Spaniards.... 242

APPENDIX.

Historical Summary of the remarkable expedition of Chevalier Dominique de Gourgue to the eastern coast of Florida, to punish the Spaniards for the massacre of the French Protestant (Huguenot) colony in Florida, 1565.... 265

LA REPRINSE DE LA FLORIDE: par Cappitaine Gourgue.... 266

Memoria de Joan de la Vandera en que se hace relacion de los lugares y tierra de la Florida por dondo el Capitan Juan Pardo entró á descubrie camino para Nueva Espana por los Anos de 1566-1567.... 289

Carta en que se da noticia de un viaje hecho a la bahia de Espiritu Santo,Tejas (Texas); y de la poblacion que tenian ahi los Franceses, 1689.... 293

Historical notice of works published on the Indian languages of Florida and Texas.... 296

PAGE [i]

HISTORICAL COLLECTIONS

OF

Louisiana and Florida,

INCLUDING

TRANSLATIONS OF ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPTS RELATING TO THEIR

DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT,

WITH NUMEROUS

HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES.

BY B. F. FRENCH,

MEMBER OF THE LOUISIANA, GEORGIA, PENNSYLVANIA, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK AND

MASSACHUSETTS HISTORICAL SOCIETIES.

SECOND SERIES.

Historical Memoirs and Narratives, 1527-1702,

NEW YORK:

ALBERT MASON, PUBLISHER.

1875.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by

B. F. FRENCH,

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington.

LANGE, LITTLE & CO.,

PRINTERS, ELECTROTYPERS AND STEREOTYPERS,

108 TO 114 WOOSTER ST.,

NEW YORK.

TO

LIEUTENANT G. W. COSTER,

OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY,

THIS VOLUME IS

DEDICATED,

AS A TOKEN OF ESTEEM AND FRIENDSHIP, AND

ADMIRATION OF HIS PROFESSIONAL AND

SCIENTIFIC ATTAINMENTS,

BY

B. F. FRENCH.

No. 94 CLINTON PLACE,

NEW YORK.

Introduction

THE spirit of adventure which manifested itself in Europe during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, was one of the clearest evidences of an approaching moral and political regeneration. It indicated the first waking moments of mind from the torpor which had crept over it, and the struggle that ensued, though ill-directed and ill-regulated, was yet active, energetic, and earnest--working out into reality and fact, what had seemed before but the vagary of a dream. There was a movement in Europe, a progressive movement, whose vital energies were to be exhausted in new fields. Men were looking out for themselves, and indulging in airy fancies; they panted for new scenes and enterprises; they loathed the contracted empire which Nature had apparently assigned them, and strained their eyes across wide oceans for new countries. The spirit which had been awakened was to slumber no more--there was hope for Europe and for the new continent which the Northmen and Columbus had discovered, and the fifteenth century opened a way for the sixteenth.

It was the fifteenth which produced Columbus, but the sixteenth and seventeenth carried out his noble conceptions, and filled the ocean with adventurers and explorers of distant lands. The country adjacent to the St. Lawrence, Hudson, Mississippi, and the savannahs of Florida, were soon reached by colonists from Spain, France, Holland, and England, thirsting for glory and gold, for liberty and equality. In 1513, Juan Ponce de Leon, a veteran cavalier and seaman, on Easter Sunday, Pascha Floridum, discovered the coast of Florida, and landed at a place called the Bay of the Cross, where he took formal possession and planted a stone cross as a sign of the jurisdiction of Spain.

He discovered Cape Corrientes (Canaveral), and also the Tortugas and rocks called the Martyrs; he then entered the bay, sometimes called after his name, where he also landed and took possession of the country in the name of the Castilian sovereigns, and returned to Spain, where, by much solicitation, he obtained the appointment of governor, to plant a colony in Florida; and on his return he was repulsed by the natives in attempting to take possession of the country, and while suffering from the wounds received from the Indians he was compelled to return to Hispaniola, where he died.

The voyages of Don Francisco de Garay, governor of Cuba, now began to throw new light on the discoveries of Ponce de Leon, and the coast of Florida became better known; and with motives of a more sordid nature, Luke Vasquez de Ayllon, in 1520, equipped two ships, and sailed

from Hispaniola to explore the coast and capture the natives. In a few days he made land in the Bay of St. Helena (South Carolina), and landed on the banks of the "Jordan" river (Combahee), in the country called by the Indians "Chichora," where he invited them on board and sailed to St. Domingo to sell them for slaves but, as if to punish his perfidy, one of his ships foundered at sea, and both captors and the captives perished together. He again returned to Spain, and instead of being punished for his piracy, he was rewarded by Charles the Fifth with a commission as governor of all the countries he should discover; and, in 1525, he went again to St. Helena with three ships, one of which was stranded at the mouth of the "Jordan," and two hundred of his men were cut off and massacred by the natives and he himself only escaped to die at the recollection of a life which had been so ignominiously spent.

In this state of affairs, Charles the Fifth, Emperor of Spain, granted to Pamphilo de Narvaez a commission to conquer and govern all the country from the River of Palms (Panuco, in Mexico) to the Cape of Florida. On the 16th of June, 1527, he sailed from St. Lucar, Spain, with six hundred men, and arrived at the island of Cuba, where he remained some months, but finally departed in March, 1528, and in April landed in the Bay of Apalache; and after issuing a proclamation of destruction to the natives (this document is printed in this volume) unless they acknowledged the sovereignty of the Pope and the Emperor, he wandered two hundred leagues or more through the country

in search of gold. He finally reached the Indian town of Aute, on the Bay of St. Marks (San Marco de Apalache), where he desperately put to sea in a few small boats, and in attempting to cross the mouths of the Mississippi in a storm, he perished at sea, and only four of his men escaped shipwreck, three of whom, after years of vicissitude, reached Mexico nine years after, among whom was Don Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca, who published his interesting narrative of the countries or Spanish provinces in the south-west and New Spain which he visited in 1530-4. It is supposed that he was the first, before De Soto, to cross the Mississippi, at one of the Chickasaw bluffs, near Memphis, and proceeded west by the waters of Arkansas to Chihuahua, thence to Cinaloa, and from thence to Mexico.

After these disasters the vast country of Florida was neglected. But the excited fancy of the Spaniards still, however, continued to burn for gold and conquest, and after the lapse of some years, Hernando de Soto, who had been with Pizarro, in the conquest of Peru, and an account of whose expedition to Florida was written by a gentleman of Elvas (supposed to be Benedict Fernandez), which is published, with that of Biedma, in the second volume of the first series of the "Historical Collections of Louisiana," now obtained from Charles the Fifth the appointment of Governor-General of Florida, and Marquess of all the lands he might conquer. He set sail from Spain, in 1538, with an ample armament, and in 1539 he landed at the Bay of Espiritu Santo, now Tampa Bay, with six hundred and twenty chosen men, and

PAGE [ix]

declared that the enterprise was undertaken for God alone. He traversed with his army great portions of Georgia, South Carolina, Alabama, Tennessee, and Mississippi, and at length, in the third year of their journeying, they reached, what De Soto was long in search of, the Mississippi, the Indian name of which was Mechacebe, and the Spanish, "Rio del Espirito Santo" (one hundred and thirty-two years before its second discovery by Marquette and Joliet), which the historian of this expedition describes as "Almost half a league wide, deep, rapid, and constantly rolling down trees and drift-wood on its turbid waters. The current was strong, and with the help of oars they went very swiftly. If a man stood still on the opposite side of it, it could not be discerned whether he was a man or no. In places it was a league or more broad, and of great depth, and the water always muddy," which is unmistakably a description of some of the physical features of this great river, that De Soto so much admired for its grandeur and extent, and claimed for his sovereign; and in presence of his army he named it "El Rio Grande de la Florida," and which name it retained for over one hundred and thirty years; while the honor of its discovery equally belongs to his successor, Don Louis Moscoso de Alvarado, who led, after the death of De Soto, the remainder of his army, in brigantines, down its stream to the Gulf of Mexico, and from thence to the city of Mexico, where he announced to the world, not only its physical features, but gave an account of the various Indian tribes found upon its banks. In its course this great river receives

on the one side all the waters of the Alleghanies, and on the other all those of the Rocky Mountains. It stands there like a gigantic production of nature, with its far-reaching arms, adapted to bring into connection the most fruitful States of North America. At this period Spain claimed, under the name of Florida, the entire coast of North America but she had not as yet, within this whole extent, built one fort, or attempted to occupy one harbor or town.

It was ever the characteristic of the Spanish conqueror, that first in his thoughts and aims was the extension of the religion in which he was born and bred. The complete history of the Romish Church in North or South America, was to embrace the whole conquest or settlement of those portions held originally by France and Spain. While others sought gold in the New World, the priests labored for the propagation of religion and conversion of souls. No expedition left the shores of Spain or France that was not supplied with pious priests.

The first wholly missionary voyage to the shores of Florida was undertaken by Luis Cancel de Balbastro, a Dominican friar, in 1547, who was permitted, at the expense of the Emperor Charles the Fifth, to proceed to Florida to Christianize the Indians of that country. He sailed, accordingly, from Vera Cruz, Mexico, in 1549, bearing to their pious duty three other zealous brothers, Juan Garcia, Diego de Tolosa, and Gregoria de Beteta.

They landed on the western coast of Florida, in about 28 of north latitude, the day after Ascension Day; and after

two months wasted in fruitless efforts to conciliate the natives, when all but Beteta had fallen martyrs to the cause of Christianity, the vessel returned to Vera Cruz. Some years later (1559), when Don Tristan de Luna y Arrelano founded the colony of Santa Maria de Filipina, near Pensacola, he was accompanied by a provincial bishop and a considerable corps of priests; but as his attempt was unsuccessful, his colony were soon disbanded, as they could not make any impression upon the Natives.*

It would appear, from this reception of the holy fathers, the natives had anticipated some trouble from the Spaniards, which was foreshadowed in an address to the King from Dr. Santander, July 15, 1557.+

After the disastrous and tragical termination of so many attempts to reduce the country of Florida under Spanish dominion, the zeal of the Spaniards began to abate. But

* Brinton's "Notes on the Floridian Peninsula."

+ Address to the King :-- "It is lawful that your Majesty, like a good shepherd, appointed by the hand of the Eternal Father, should tend and lead out your sheep, since the Holy Spirit has shown spreading pastures whereon are feeding lost sheep which have been snatched away by the dragon, the Demon. These pastures are the New World, wherein is comprised Florida, now in possession of the Demon, and here he makes himself adored and revered. This is the land of promise, possessed by idolaters; this is the land promised by the Eternal Father to the faithful, since we are commanded by God, in the holy Scriptures, to take it from them, being idolaters; and by reason of their idolatry and sin, to put them all to the knife, leaving no living thing, save maidens and children; their cities robbed and sacked, their walls and houses leveled to the earth." This writer then proposes to occupy Florida at various points, and found a city to be called Filipina, another at Pensacola, to be called Caesarea, another at Tallahassee, and another at Tampa Bay, where he thinks many slaves could be had.--Parkman's "Pioneers of France in the New World."

the French soon after attempted to establish a colony of French Protestants (Huguenots) on the eastern coast. "In the year 1562 a cloud of black and deadly portent was thickening over France; none could pierce the future. The wild rage of fanaticism and hate; friend grappling with friend, brother with brother, father with son; altars profaned, hearthstones made desolate, the robes of Justice herself bedrenched with murder." In these days of gloom Admiral Coligny ordered Captain Jean de Ribeau (sometimes printed Ribault) to sail from France with two men-of-war and a large body of troops, to found a colony of French Protestants. After a voyage of two months he arrived on the coast of Florida, in latitude 30 north, near the site of the present city of St. Augustine. He found the coast low, and covered with lofty trees. He continued to sail along the coast until he came to the mouth of a beautiful river which he called May, from the month in which he made the discovery. He

entered the mouth of this river, and was kindly received by the natives. He continued to proceed northerly along the coast as far as the river Jordan (probably the Combahee), where he finally resolved on planting his little colony, which has been since ascertained to be on Lemon Island, a few miles from the mouth of Port Royal (named Grand by Ribault) River, and took possession of the country in the name of his sovereign; erected a pillar with the arms of France upon it, and built a fort, which he laid out, of a triangular form, in honor of Charles the Ninth, King of France, and which he called Charlesfort (Arx Carolina), and after leaving

twenty-six persons there, he returned to France. The narrative and particulars of this voyage, which was written in French by Ribault, on his return to France in 1562, is a rare document, and is now, for the first time, printed in this country. It is not known that more than two or three printed copies of it, printed in 1583, now exist. This expedition was followed by another from France, fitted out, in 1564, by the King, and commanded by René (de Goulaine) de Laudonniere, to relieve the colony at Charlesfort; but finding, on his arrival, the fort deserted, he determined to establish a colony on the River May (St. John's), where he selected a spot for a town on the south side of the river, about five or six miles from the sea, of which he took possession, and built a fort at what is now St. John's Bluff, which he named Fort Carolin, and erected a column of stone, engraved with the arms of France, as a sign of the jurisdiction of France. The remains of this fort have been since discovered. It was built of a triangular shape. Everywhere he went he found the natives living in huts built of wood and clay. In their carriage he found them proud and erect; and the comeliness of the females was not surpassed by those of Europe. Having now finished his fort, he turned his attention to searching for gold. This gave him an opportunity to become acquainted with the manners and customs of the natives. But not finding any mines, he resolved to return to France. At this period the legitimists of France and Spain, Charles the Ninth and Philip the Second, were at perfect peace; and the latter finding leisure

to turn his attention to the colonizing of Florida, he selected Don Pedro de Melendez Aviles to conduct the enterprise and to have the natives Christianized. He was vested with the dignity of a Spanish adelantado and the hereditary government of the Floridas. It was in the midst of the preparations of sailing to Florida that he heard the Huguenots (French Protestants) had made an establishment on the coast, and the Propaganda expedition immediately assumed all the characteristics of a proclaimed crusade. Sovereign and clergy crowded into the service. In the meantime, Ribault had arrived with a fleet to relieve the colony. In a few days after Melendez also arrived (on the 4th September, 1565) with a fleet of ships and troops, to take possession of Florida. Ribault now decided to attack the Spanish fleet, and from prayers they rushed to slaughter. Ribault went to sea to make the attack, but of a sudden a great tempest arose and arrested his designs, which drove his ships down the Florida coast, and gave the event an entirely new aspect to the fortunes of Melendez ; who in the meantime attacked, with a land force, Fort Carolin, on the St. John's, and captured it, and hung all the French who manned it, "not as Frenchmen, but as heretics," except a few who were killed in the attack, and who made their escape by leaping the parapet, including M. Laudonniere, who afterwards returned to France in a vessel then lying at some distance down the river. The truth of this achievement cannot be questioned, as Melendez himself commemorated it by a monument.

In a few days after the fate of Ribault's fleet was known as being shipwrecked, with all on board, near Cape Canaveral (Corrientes), Melendez went in search of them at Matanzas Inlet, and on the assurance that they would be humanely treated, Ribault surrendered, and his men, as well as himself and officers, were afterwards taken, in small parties, behind the sand-hills of the coast, and massacred. Thus the whole colony, with those in the forts, were destroyed, and all France and England were indignant when informed of the infamous transaction. But the French King, Charles the Ninth, was apparently indifferent about it, and no public notice was taken of the matter till 1567, when the Chevalier Dominique de Gourgues--a character that would grace an epic poem--a Gascon gentleman, born at Mount Marson, who had served against the Spaniards in Italy, and who had retired to private life when the news came of the massacre of the French by the Spaniards in Florida, immediately fitted out two ships with troops, and attacked the Spaniards in the forts they had taken from the French in Florida, and hung the soldiery, "not as Spaniards, but as traitors, murderers, and robbers." He afterwards demolished the forts, and returned to France. "Romantic as this exploit was, it lacked, however," says Parkman, "the fulness of poetic justice, since the chief offender, Melendez, escaped him. He it was who remained to crush French Protestantism in America."

In this volume will also he found a full statement, by the Chevalier de Gourgues himself, of this remarkable expedition

against the Spaniards, in 1567-8, to revenge the massacre of the French colony; also a translation of the narrative of Francisco Lopez de Mendoza Grajales, chaplain of the expedition commanded by Melendez de Aviles, a most zealous hater of heretics. "He shows how the special Providence of God watched over the enterprise," says Brinton, "how divers wondrous miracles were at once proof and aid of the pious work, and how in sundry times and places God manifestly furthered the holy work of bloodshed. But the most valuable portion of the memoir is that in which he describes the founding of St. Augustine, entering into the movements of the Spaniards with more detail than Don Solis de las Meras;" and also the account of the massacre by Don Solis de las Meras, translated from Barcia, "Ensayo Chronologico Historia General de la Florida," who hold up Melendez as a model of Christian virtue and valor. "he Spanish accounts of this massacre of the Protestants in Florida," says Brinton, in his "Notes on Florida," though agreeing, as regards the facts, with those of the French, take a very different theoretical view. The massacre of the Protestants (Huguenots) is excused with cogent reasoning for exterminating this nest of pestilent unbelievers. Could they be ignorant that they were breaking the laws of nations by settling on Spanish soil ?" The Council of the Indies argue the point, and prove the infringement in a still extant document appended to the Compte-Rendu of Guido de las Bazares, which is translated and published in this volume, in English. But much more valuable is the memoir of

Hernando D'Escalante Fontaneda, who boasts that he could speak four Indian languages, and who afterwards accompanied the expedition of the Adelantado Melendez de Aviles to Florida. "The geographical notices of this author," says Brinton, "are indeed valuable, particularly in locating the ancient Indian tribes of that country."

Among the original narratives published in this volume there is none of more importance than the history of M. D'Iberville's several expeditions made to colonize Louisiana, which is now for the first time translated and printed in any language, giving an account of all that took place, as well as a description of the country, and manners and customs of the Indian tribes of that country; establishing important data which are not to be found elsewhere.

And should this volume meet with the encouragement expected, it will be followed by translations of other original manuscripts, obtained from the archives of France and Spain, of important historical interest, not to be found in print, showing the gradual progress made by Louisiana and Florida from Colonial dependence to Free and Independent States.

NARRATIVE

of the

EXPEDITION OF M. CAVALIER DE LA SALLE*

TO EXPLORE THE (MISSISSIPPI) COLBERT RIVER, AND TAKE POSSESSION OF LOUISIANA, UNDER THE ORDERS AND LETTERS PATENT OF LOUIS XIV., KING OF FRANCE, IN 1652.

TRANSLATED FROM A COPY OF THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT (PROCES VERBAL) DEPOSITED IN THE ARCHIVES OF THE "MINISTÈRE DE LA MARINE ET DES COLONIES," PARIS.

JACQUES DE LA METAIRIE, notary of Fort Frontenac in New France, commissioned to exercise the said function of notary during the voyage to Louisiana, in North America, by M. de la Salle, Governor of Fort Frontenac, for the King, and commandant of the said discovery by the commission of his Majesty, given at St. Germain, on the 12th May, 1678.

"To all those to whom these presents shall come, greeting:--

* According to ancient records, De la Salle's name in full was written Réné Robert Cavalier, Sieur de la Salle. La Salle was the name of an estate near Rouen, France, belonging to the Cavaliers. The wealthy French burghers often distinguished the various members of their families by designations borrowed from landed estates. He had an elder brother in Canada, the Abbe Jean Cavalier, a priest of St. Sulpice.

Know that having been requested by the said Sieur de la Salle to deliver to him an act, signed by us and the witnesses therein named, of possession by him taken of the country of Louisiana, near the three mouths of the river Colbert (Mississippi), in the Gulf of Mexico, in the month of April, A. D. 1682.

"In the name of the most high, mighty, invincible, and victorious Prince, Louis the Great, by the grace of God King of France and of Navarre, fourteenth of that name, and of his heirs, and the successor of his crown, we, the aforesaid notary, have delivered the said act to the said Sieur de la Salle, the tenor whereof follows.

"On the 27th of December, 1681, M. de la Salle departed on foot to join M. de Tonty, who had preceded him with his followers and all his equipage forty leagues into the Miamis country,* where the ice on the river Chicagou, in the country of the Mascoutens, had arrested his progress, and where, when the ice became stronger, they used sledges to drag the baggage, the canoes, and a wounded Frenchman through the whole length of this river, and on the Illinois, a distance of seventy leagues.

"At length, all the French being together, on the 25th of January, 1682, we came to Pimiteoui.+ From that place, the river being frozen only in some parts, we continued our

* The Miamis Indians were settled, when Marquette explored the Mississippi River, at the south end of Lake Michigan.

+ Lake Pimiteoui (Peoria, on the Illinois River), where M. de la Salle had previously built forts St. Louis and Crèvecour.

route to the River Colbert (Mississippi *), sixty leagues or thereabouts from Pimiteoui, and ninety leagues or thereabouts from Pimiteoui (Peoria) to the village of the Illinois.+ We reached the banks of the River Colbert on the 6th of February, and remained there until the 13th, waiting for the Indians, whose progress had been impeded by the ice. On the 13th, all having assembled, we renewed our voyage, being twenty-two Frenchmen, carrying arms, accompanied by the Reverend Father Zenobe Membré++ and one of the Recollect missionaries, and followed by eighteen New England savages and several women, Algonquins, Otchepóse, and Hurons.

"On the fourteenth, we arrived at the village of Maroa,+++ consisting of a hundred cabins, without inhabitants. Proceeding about one hundred leagues down the River Colbert, we went ashore to hunt, on the 26th of February. A Frenchman was lost in the woods,** and reported to M. de la Salle, that a large number of savages had been seen in the vicinity. Thinking that they might have seized the Frenchman, and in

* The name of Colbert was given to this river by Governor Frontenac of Canada in honor of the great French minister Colbert, who died soon after its exploration by Marquette and Joliet in 1673.

+ The present city of Peoria is not upon the site of the old Indian village or mission of Peoria, but upon the old site of La Villa de Maillet.

++ Father Zenobe was afterward massacred by the Indians at Fort St. Louis, on St. Bernard's (now Matagorda) Bay, Texas, in 1689.

+++ Maroa or Tamaroa, an Illinois village, where Cahokia was afterwards built.

** The first Chickasaw bluff where Fort Prudhomme was built by the Frenchmen, and subsequently Fort Panmure by the English, and San Fernando de Barancas by the Spaniards.

order to observe these savages, he marched through the woods during two days, but without finding them, because they had all been frightened by the guns which they had heard, and had fled.

"Returning to camp, he sent in every direction French and Indians on the search, with orders, if they fell in with the savages, to take them alive, without injury, that he might gain from them intelligence of this Frenchman. Gabriel Barbie, with two savages, having met five of the Chickasaw nation, captured two of them. They were received with all possible kindness, and after he had explained to them that he was anxious about a Frenchman, who had been lost, and that he only detained them that he might rescue him from their hands if he was really among them and afterwards make with them an advantageous peace (the French doing good to everybody), they assured him that they had not seen the man whom we sought, but that peace would be received with the greatest satisfaction. Presents were then given to them, and, as they signified that one of their villages was not more than half a day's journey distant, M. de la Salle set out the next day to go thither; but after traveling till night, and having remarked that they often contradicted themselves in their discourse, he declined to go any farther without more provisions. Having pressed them to tell the truth, they confessed that it was yet four days' journey to their villages; and perceiving that M. de la Salle was angry at having been deceived, they proposed that one of them should remain with him, while the other carried the

news to the village, whence the elders would come and join them four days' journey below that place. The said Sieur de la Salle returned to the camp with one of these Chickasaws, and the French whom we sought having been found, he continued his voyage, and passed the River Chepontias,* and the village of the Metsigameas (Mitchigamea).+ The fog, which was very thick, prevented his finding the passage which led to the rendezvous proposed by the Chickasaws.

"On the 12th of March, we arrived at the Kapaha++ village, on the Arkansas. Having established a peace there, and taken possession, we passed, on the 15th, another of their villages, situated on the border of their river,** and also two others, farther off in the depth of the forest, and arrived at that of Imaha, the largest village of this nation, where peace was confirmed, and where the chief acknowledged that the village belonged to his Majesty. Two Akansas embarked with M. de la Salle to conduct him to the Talusas (Taensas), their allies, about fifty leagues distant, who inhabit eight villages upon the borders of a little lake. On the 19th

* Supposed to be the St. Francis River.

+ A warlike tribe that lived on a lake of that name, near the River St. Francis.

++ This village was situated on a high hill, about half a league from the mouth of the Arkansas River. Here La Salle first took formal possession of the country, and drew from the chief an acknowledgment of fealty to Louis XIV., and a cross raised bearing the arms of France.

** When the French first discovered the Akansa (Arkansas River), the nation or tribes on the Akansa were known as, 1st, the Kapaha (Quapaws) 2d, the Tongenga or Topingas, 3d, the Toriman, 4th, the Atotchasi, Osotonoy, Sauthouis, Otsotchove, a remnant of whom still remain, and are known as the Quapaws.

we passed the villages of Tourika (Tonicas), Yasou (Yazoo), and Koroas; but as they did not border on the river, and were hostile to the Akansas and Taensas, we did not stop there.

"On the 20th we arrived at the Taensas, by whom we were exceedingly well received, and who supplied us with a large quantity of provisions. M. de Tonty passed a night at one of their villages, where there were about seven hundred men carrying arms, assembled in the place. Here again a peace was concluded.* A peace was also made with the Koroas, whose chief came there from the principal village of the Koroas, ten leagues distant from that of the Natchez. The two chiefs accompanied M. de la Salle to the banks of the river. Here the Koroa chief embarked with him (on Easter Sunday, the 29th of March), to conduct him to his village, where peace was again concluded with this nation, which, besides the five other villages of which it is composed, is allied to nearly forty others. On the 31st we passed the village of the Oumas without knowing it, on account of the fog, and its distance from the river.

"On the 3d of April, at about ten o'clock in the morning, we saw, among the canes, thirteen or fourteen canoes. M. de la Salle landed, with several of his people. Footprints

* The Taensas were first described by Father Zenobe Membre, who accompanied La Salle in this expedition, and from this time forward were the true friends of the French. They spoke the same language, and had the same manners, habits, and religious customs of the Natchez, of which, Le Page du Pratz says, they were a branch.

were seen, and also savages, a little lower down, who were fishing, and who fled precipitately as soon as they discovered us. Others of our party then went ashore on the borders of a marsh formed by the inundations of the river. M. de la Salle sent two Frenchmen, and then two savages, to reconnoiter, who reported that there was a village (Quinipisas) not far off, but that the whole of this marsh, covered with canes, must be crossed to reach it; that they had been assailed with a shower of arrows by the inhabitants of the town, who had not dared to engage with them in the marsh, but who had then withdrawn, although neither the French nor the savages with them had fired on account of the orders they had received not to fire, unless in pressing danger. Presently, we heard a drum beat in the village, and the cries and howlings with which these barbarians are accustomed to make attacks. We waited three or four hours, and as we could not encamp in this marsh, and seeing no one, and no longer hearing anything, we embarked, an hour afterwards, to go to the village of Maheoula,* lately destroyed, and containing dead bodies, and marks of blood. Two leagues below this place we encamped. We continued our voyage until the 6th, when we discovered three channels, by which the River Colbert discharges itself into the sea. We landed on the bank of the most western channel, about three leagues from its mouth. On the 7th, M. de la

* Probably the village of the Tangibao, which had been destroyed by the Quinipisas.

Salle* went to reconnoiter the shores of the neighboring sea (Gulf of Mexico), and M. De Tonty likewise examined the great middle channel. They found these three outlets beautiful, large, and deep.

"On the 8th we reascended the river, a little above its confluence with the sea, to find a dry place beyond the reach of inundation. The elevation of the north pole was here about 27. Here we prepared a column and a cross, and to the said column were affixed the arms of France with this inscription:

Louis Le Grand, Roi de France et de

Navarre, Règue; Le Neuvième

Avril, 1682.

The whole party under arms chanted the Te Deum, the Exaudiat, the Domine Salvum fac Regem; and then, after a salute of fire-arms and cries of Vive le Roi, the column was erected by M. de la Salle, who, standing near it, said with a loud voice, in French: 'In the name of the most high, mighty, invincible, and victorious Prince, LOUIS THE GREAT, by the grace of God, King of France and Navarre, fourteenth of that name, this ninth day of April, one thousand six hundred and eighty-two, I in virtue of the commission of his Majesty (Louis XIV.) which I hold in my hand, and

* "Sieur de la Salle," says Father Membre, "took the western, the Sieur Dautray the southern, and M. de Tonty the middle channel. They found the water brackish, but after advancing two leagues into the gulf, it became perfectly salt."

which may be seen by all whom it may concern, have taken, and do now take in the name of his Majesty and of his successors to the crown, possession of this country of Louisiana, the seas, harbors, ports, bays, adjacent straits; and all the nations, people, provinces, cities, towns, villages, mines, minerals, fisheries, streams, and rivers comprised in the extent of Louisiana, from the mouth of the great River St. Louis on the eastern side, otherwise called Ohio, Alighinsipou (Alleghany), or Chickagoua, and this with the consent of the Chouanons (Shawanoes),* Chicachas (Chickasaws), and other people dwelling therein, with whom we have made alliance; as also along the River Colbert or Mississippi, and rivers which discharge themselves therein, from its source; beyond the country of the Kious (Sioux) or Nadouessions, and this with their consent, and with the consent of the Motantees, Illinois, Mesigameas (Metchigamias), Akansas, Natches, and Koroas, which are the most considerable nations+ dwelling therein, with whom also we have made alliance

* The Shawanoes were a wandering nation, and as early as 1660 occupied the country on the Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers, and after that emigrated to the Wabash River country. The Chickasaws were a powerful, warlike nation, and occupied the country within the present States of Kentucky and Tennessee.

+ "These tribes," says Father Zenobe Membre, "though savage, seem generally of very good disposition, affable, obliging, and docile. They are very different from our Canada Indians in their houses, dress, manners, and customs, and even in the form of their head, for theirs is very flat. They have large public squares, games, and assemblies. They seem very lively and active, and their chiefs possess all the authority. They have their valets and officers, who follow and serve them everywhere. They have also axes and guns, which they procure from the Spaniards sixty-five or more leagues off."

either by ourselves or by others in our behalf; as far as the mouth at the sea or Gulf of Mexico, about the 27th degree of the elevation of the north pole, and also to the mouth of the river of Palms (Rio de Palmas*); upon the assurance which we have received from all these nations that we are the first Europeans who have descended or ascended the River Colbert, hereby protesting against all those who may in future undertake to invade any or all of these countries, people, or lands above described to the prejudice of the right of his Majesty acquired by the consent of the nations herein named, of which and all that can be needed, I hereby take to witness those who hear me, and demand an act of the notary as required by law.'

"To which the whole assembly responded with shouts of Vive le Roi and with salutes of fire-arms. Moreover, the said Sieur de la Salle caused to be buried at the foot of the tree to which the cross was attached a leaden plate, on one side of which were engraved the arms of France and the following Latin inscription:

LVDOVICVS MAGNVS REGNAT.

NONO APRILIS CI[?] I[?]C LXXXII.

ROBERTVS CAVELIER CVM DOMINO DE TONTY, LEGATO

R. P. ZENOBIO MEMBRÈ, RECOLLECTO, ET VIGINTI GALLIS,

PRIMVS HOC FLVMEN, INDE AB ILINEORVM PAGO, ENAVIGAVIT,

EJVSQUE OSTIVM FECIT PERVIVM, NONO APRILIS ANNI

CI[?] I[?]C LXXXII.

* The Rio de Palmas is about one hundred leagues from the River Panuco (Tampico), Mexico.

"After which the Sieur de la Salle said that his Majesty, as eldest Son of the Church, would annex no country to his crown without making it his chief care to establish the Christian religion therein, and that its symbol must now be planted, which was accordingly done at once by erecting a cross, before which the Vexilla and the Domine Salvum fac Regem were sung, whereupon the ceremony was concluded with cries of Vive le Roi. Of all and every of the above the said Sieur de la Salle having required of us an instrument, we have delivered to him the same signed by us, and by the undersigned witnesses, this ninth day of April, one thousand six hundred and eighty-two."

"LA METAIRIE,

Notary.

"DE LA SALLE.

"P. ZENOBE, Recollect Missionary.

"HENRY DE TONTY.

" FRANÇOIS DE BOISRONDET.

"JEAN BOURDON.

"SIEUR D'AUTRAY.

"JAQUES CAUCHOIS.

"PIERRE YOU.

"GILLES MEUCRET.

"JEAN MICHEL, Surgeon.

"JEAN MAS.

"JEAN DULIGNON.

"NICOLAS DE LA SALLE."

Historical Journal;

OR,

NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITIONS

MADE BY ORDER OF

HIS MAJESTY LOUIS XIV., KING OF FRANCE,

TO

COLONIZE LOUISIANA,

UNDER THE COMMAND OF

M. PIERRE LE MOYNE D'IBERVILLE, GOVERNOR GENERAL;

INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF HIS

Explorations of the Colbert or Mississippi River, from its mouth to the Natchez

Nation; of the Physical features of the Country; and of the Manners

and Customs of the Numerous Indian Tribes he Visited.

Translated, and printed for the first time, from a copy of the original manuscript deposited in the Office of the Ministère de la Marine et des Colonies," Paris.

Names of the Ships and Officers of the Expedition.

I. LA BADINE--THIRTY GUNS, AND MANNED WITH TWO HUNDRED MEN;--

II. LE MARIN--THIRTY GUNS, AND MANNED WITH TWO HUNDRED MEN;--

III. LE PRECIEUX;--

IV. LE BISCAYENNE;--

Which was increased on his arrival at St. Domingo, by order of the King, with the Ship of war LE François, of 52 Guns, commanded by the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUMORAND, and several transports with troops and provisions.

Historical Journal:

OR,

NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION MADE BY ORDER OF LOUIS XIV., KING OF FRANCE, UNDER COMMAND OF M. D'IBERVILLE, TO EXPLORE THE COLBERT (MISSISSIPPI) RIVER AND ESTABLISH A COLONY IN LOUISIANA.

TRANSLATED AND PRINTED FOR THE FIRST TIME, FROM A COPY OF THE

ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT, DEPOSITED IN THE ARCHIVES OF THE

MINISTÈRE DE LA MARINE ET DES COLONIES, PARIS.

ON Friday morning, October 24, 1698, we weighed anchor in the port of Brest, France. The frigate La Badine, commanded by M. PIERRE LE MOYNE D'IBERVILLE,* fired a signal gun, announcing the departure of the expedition to Louisiana. Upon passing the entrance to the harbor, we

* The illustrious PIERRE LE MOYNE D'IBERVILLE, first Royal Governor of Louisiana, was the third of eleven sons of the brave CHARLES LE MOYNE, Seigneur of Longueil, Lower Canada, all of whom distinguished themselves in the wars of France with England, Spain, and Holland. He was born at Montreal, July 20, 1662, and at an early age entered the naval service of France.

met a squadron of four ships of war, the Eclatant, the Oiseau, the Dauphin, and the Hercules, commanded by ADMIRAL DE COËTLOGON, who sent his gig on board our flag-ship Badine, which gave a salute of seven guns, and was returned by five guns from the Eclatant. We steered west southwest in order to escape the Bay-froid ledge, and at five o'clock we made Ushant, where we took our first observation and found our latitude to be 48, 12; 10, 40, west longitude.

In the morning we signaled eight ships of war steering

In 1685 he took part in the expedition commanded by M. DE TROYES to Hudson Bay, and captured Forts Rupert, and Monsonis. In 1687, M. D'IBERVILLE was promoted to the rank of Captain of a ship of war, and ordered to Quebec. On his way to that port, he captured an English ship of war, with the British Governor and suite on board, and took them prisoners to Quebec. In 1689, he was sent to take command of Fort St. Ann, which he nobly defended against the combined attack of a British fleet and repulsed, with large loss to the enemy. He continued in command of this fort for more than a year, when he sailed for France with dispatches for the government, where he was graciously received by the King and Court. In 1692, he returned to Canada in command of a squadron, and captured Fort Nelson, a strong fortress which had been in the hands of the English since 1683. In this attack he lost his gallant brother, M. DE CHATEAUGUAY, in leading an attack on one of the bastions of the fort. In concert with M. DE BRILLON, they afterwards destroyed the fortress and town of St. John's, Newfoundland. At the close of the war with England and Holland, in 1697, and while in command of the ship Pelican, of fifty guns, he fought one of the most unequal and decisive battles in naval history. With a single ship, the Pelican, he was attacked by three English ships of war: the Hampshire, of fifty-two guns, which surrendered the Hudson, of thirty-six guns, which he sunk; and the ship Dehring, of thirty-two guns, which he put to flight. This brilliant victory closed his naval career in Canada; and secured to France, by the treaty of Ryswick, all the territory, towns, and forts lying upon Hudson's Bay. He once more returned to France, where he was created a Knight of St. Louis, and took this occasion to urge upon the Court the necessity of sending a fleet to the Gulf of Mexico

southwest, for the purpose of reconnoitering Cape Finisterre. On Wednesday, the 29th, we hoisted our flag, and notified our ships the Badine was leaking badly. On Tuesday, December 2d, we arrived in sight of the Island of St. Domingo, and on the 4th, anchored at Cape François, where we expected to find M. DU CASSE, the Governor, but who had gone the day before to Port de Paix. On Friday, the 5th, we dispatched M. DES OURDYS to bring him back, and on the

to take possession, and plant a colony in Louisiana, which had been neglected since the death of LA SALLE; and to unite her with the magnificent country of Louisiana, where it was important to establish in the Gulf a market for her commerce, and a nursery for her navy. He was accordingly appointed, in 1698, to command a squadron, with the title of Governor-General, and to proceed immediately to Louisiana, and establish a colony there. (See first, series Historical Collections of Louisiana, vol. 3, pp. 10-12.)

On his arrival in the Gulf of Mexico, he found the Spaniards already in possession of Pensacola, and, having no authority to drive them out, he continued his voyage along the coast to the west, and took possession of some islands in Mobile Bay, where he landed his troops, and went in search of the Colbert or Mississippi river, which he ascended as far as the Natchez, and on his return he ordered a fort to be built (La Boulaye) on the left bank of the river, about thirty leagues above its mouth. He afterwards made several voyages to France for colonists and provisions, until the war broke out between France, Spain, and England, when he was recalled to France, and appointed the commander of a fleet to attack the English towns on the Atlantic coast, leaving the colony to protect itself. The expedition did not, however, set sail immediately, on account of his sickness, and it was not until the spring of 1706 that he reached St. Domingo; and when about to set sail for Charleston, he was attacked with yellow fever, which, after a short illness, put an end to his life, on the 9th of July, 1706, in the forty-fourth year of his age, leaving a wife and grateful country to mourn his loss. This brave and accomplished officer was the contemporary of JEAN BART, DE TOURVILLE, D'ESTRÉE, COËTLOGON, and DUGAI TROUIN, who contributed with him their share to the glory of France, and the long and brilliant reign of Louis XIV.

10th, he returned and reported that the Governor was sick. On Thursday, the 11th, we perceived the flag-ship of war, Le François, commanded by the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUMORAND, who sent his officer on board of our flag-ship. On Friday, the pilot of the Badine brought the Le François into harbor, accompanied by the Badine, and safely anchored us in Port de Paix. On Sunday, the 14th, M. LE COMTE DE SURGÈRES, MM. L'ESQUELET, and SAUVOL DE LA VILLANTRAY called on and were politely received by the Governor, who tendered us his services. He wrote immediately to the commander at the Cape, to furnish M. D'IBERVILLE with all the provisions he was in need of and to M. LAURENT DE GRAFF* to embark on board the flag-ship of the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUMORAND, at Leogane, as M. DE GRAFF was thoroughly acquainted with the coast.

He also wrote M. DE CHATEAUMORAND to visit him as soon as possible, that he might have an understanding with him.

* Capt. LAURENT DE GRAFF was an associate of MM. DE GRAMMONT, DE L'OLONOIS, MONTAUBAN, and MORGAN, and all of that band of corsairs, whose rendezvous was on the Tortugas, St. Domingo, and other West India islands; and who desolated the coasts of New Spain for more than a century. He rendered his name famous by the capture of Vera Cruz, in 1683, which placed him in possession of seven or eight millions of dollars of property. He was prompt, brave, and determined; and to resolve was to undertake and execute at the same time. He was perfectly acquainted with the Spanish mode of fighting, and distinguished himself among the bravest men of that day. Speaking the French, Spanish, and other languages, with great fluency, he was employed to accompany this expedition, as he was well acquainted with every port in the Gulf of Mexico. After M. D'IBERVILLE took possession of Louisiana, he returned with the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUMORAND to St. Domingo.

On the 16th, M. DU CASSE came on board, and we set sail for Leogane. On Friday, the 19th, at nine o'clock, we arrived there. The principal inhabitants along the coast came on board to pay their respects to M. DU CASSE, the new Governor. At two o'clock he left us, and we gave him a salute of nine guns. He gave orders to supply the fleet with fresh bread and meat twice a day. Our officers were then invited to his house, where the plan of the voyage to Louisiana was discussed.

Whilst the Badine was waiting for supplies at the Cape, the heat, fruits, and debauchery produced a good deal of sickness on board. On Tuesday, the 23d, M. LE CLERC, the King's notary, dying on shore, the holy sacrament was administered to him. On Thursday, the 25th, the flag-ship Le François , commanded by M. DE CHATEAUMORAND, and the flagship La Badine, of M. D'IBERVILLE, with her tenders, arrived, and anchored the same evening. The officers of this ship supped on board the Le Marin, commanded by M. LE COMTE DE SURGÈRES. He informed us that M. BERTHIER, Commissary of our squadron, died at the Cape on the 17th. They brought with them M. LAURENT DE GRAFF, who was to accompany us; and he also informed us that the English had sent two ships to establish a colony on the Mississippi.* On the first of January, 1699, we set sail, so as to reach

* This expedition was sent out by DANIEL COX, under the patent originally granted by CHARLES I., to Sir ROBERT HEATH, and whose frigates entered the Mississippi river in 1699, but were turned back by M. DE BIENVILLE. (Historical Collections of Louisiana, vol. 2, pp. 223-5, and vol. 3, pp. 16, 17.)

the other ships which were in advance of us. At six o'clock [A.D. 1699], the Le François fired a gun across the little Goave, to notify an officer who had gone there on a visit. He arrived at nine o'clock. M. D'IBERVILLE then sent the gun-boat (Biscayenne) to Hippe, to notify the small cruisers to procure a supply of refreshments. At five o'clock the Badine fired a gun to recall the gun-boat and cruisers. We continued to hoist but little sail on the François. At nine o'clock, the long-boat (Traversier) responded to the signal; at ten o'clock we put the ship on the starboard tack, hoisted three lights, and fired a gun to notify the François that the Badine would lie to, off Hippe,* until morning. Finding ourselves too close to Point Caymite, we hoisted our mizzen and top-sails, to clear the land.

On Friday, the 2d of January, 1699, the Badine remained to the eastward in sight of us. As for the François we could see nothing of her. On the 3d, 4th, and 5th, we coasted along the island of St. Domingo and a part of Cuba, and on Friday, the 9th, we came in sight of the Little Cayman, and on Tuesday, the 14th, we passed Cape St. Antonio. On Thursday, the 22d, we sounded, but found no bottom. In the evening, having sounded again, we found one hundred and seventy fathoms. On Friday, the 23d, the soundings gave us sixty fathoms, at two o'clock, forty fathoms, and at four o'clock, thirty fathoms. At five o'clock the Badine hoisted a flag as a signal to cast anchor. We could barely see the

* A rich district of country six leagues to the west of Petit Gonave, St. Domingo.

land, which appeared low and about six leagues off. We ranged alongside the Badine, which called out to us to make sail and reconnoiter the land, which we did. We afterwards came to anchor in thirty fathoms of water and saw a fire bearing N. N. W., which continued to burn all night, having been kindled by the Florida Indians. The latitude was 29 57' north.

On Saturday, the 24th, at six o'clock in the morning, we neared the land, the wind being in a N. E. direction, and ran down upon the tender, which was to windward of us about three leagues. The François and Badine both approached nearer in order to reconnoiter the land. At ten o'clock we signaled the long-boat or tender, and steered N. ¼ N. W. to join the other vessels. At the depth of thirty fathoms the lead brought up gray sand. An hour after we found twenty-two fathoms at a distance of about three leagues from land; we ranged along the coast until sundown, when we anchored in eighteen fathoms.

On Sunday morning, the 25th, at seven o'clock, we weighed anchor, with the wind to the eastward, which held us under close sail. The gun-boat approached the land for the purpose of reconnoitering a cape, within which we observed a river, but did not discover the entrance. We continued on to the westward, sounded and found twelve fathoms, with hard bottom. We discovered a low flat country extending from N. E. to W. S. W., a distance of fifteen leagues. The coast consisted of a fine white sand. At ten o'clock we discovered a large lake that extended to

westward, the other side of which appeared to be covered with lofty forest trees. The wind was generally from the coast and beautiful weather. The two long-boats coasted along within musket shot of the shore, where they found uniformly five fathoms of water. At six o'clock in the evening we anchored in twelve fathoms of water, fine sandy bottom. The wind continued all night from the coast with a slight haze. The tide flowed westwardly, but in the port it flowed north and south. The coast runs east and west. On Monday, the 26th, we continued the same route from the east, with a slight fog. At nine o'clock we saw a low cape to the west, and in a pass within we saw two ships. An hour after the François, in approaching, fired five guns as a signal to anchor in ten fathoms of water. We replied to this signal by several volleys of musketry, at the same time notifying the long-boats not to lose sight of us in the fog. The two ships we had seen fired two guns and sent off a long-boat to reconnoiter us. Having approached within a half league of us, they returned when we hoisted our flag. All night the winds blew from the east, weather good, and the thick haze continuing.

CHAPTER II.

ON Tuesday, the 27th, M. DE L'ESQUELET, lieutenant of the Badine, went to reconnoiter the two frigates, which he discovered were Spanish; the one mounting eighteen, the other twenty guns. They had been engaged in establishing a colony here (Pensacola), for the spaceof four months. The commander, DON ANDRÉS DE ARRIOLA, received our officer very politely, who told him that the King had heard that some five or six hundred Canadians had descended for the purpose of taking possession of the mines, and that we were sent to arrest them. That we had captured the two gun-boats, who were pirates, and that he had learned there was another in these seas carrying fifty or sixty guns, the François, that joined us at St. Domingo. We were in want of wood and water, but in order to obtain it, we must enter the river. The commander replied that he had orders to permit no one to enter the river. Nevertheless, he permitted M. L'ESQUELET to enter, and sent his major on board of us in a long-boat, whom we saluted with three guns. The Spaniards have erected a stockade

fort here, and have about three hundred men, with two Augustine and two Recollect monks. M. L'ESQUELET and the major arrived on board the François about two o'clock, with presents for the MARQUIS DE CHATEAUMORAND, who had sent on shore several demijohns of wine.

On Wednesday, the 28th, we went with our three ships and canoes to sound the entrance of the bay, called by the Spaniards Santa-Maria-de-Galvez-de-Pensacola.* We found it a beautiful harbor; the shallowest water found, according to the report of MM. D'IBERVILLE and DE SURGÈRES, who visited it themselves, was twenty feet. About noon the captain of one of the Spanish frigates came in a boat with orders for us not to enter. We had already weighed anchor, which we let fall again. The captain informed us that we could only be permitted to anchor in front of the river, where wood and water would be brought to us. It was apparent that their sailors had learned from ours that we were visiting this coast for the purpose of forming a colony. Our officers thought it prudent to go no farther. This is certainly a most beautiful port, equal at least to that of Brest, and has been lost to us by delay. There are masts enough in this bay to supply the whole marine of France. At six o'clock we hoisted our felucca on board, regretting the necessity of quitting such a beautiful place.

On Thursday, the 29th, weather calm, continued haze,

* The name of this Bay is sometimes written D'Ychuse, Achuse, and 0chuse. It was discovered by the Spaniards in the sixteenth century and was named Filipina by GUIDO DE LAS BAZARES. It was also called by the Indians, Ochus.

and variable winds which hindered us from making much headway. On Friday, the 30th, we made sail at seven o'clock in the morning, with wind E. N. E., to reconnoiter the Bay of Mobile. We approached the land within three leagues which was made S. W. ¼ W. and W. S. W.; four o'clock, steered S. W., finding but five fathoms of water. The François also signaled us that she found but five fathoms. She held the wind in order to have more sea-room. Some time after she rallied upon us. We anchored at six o'clock in nine fathoms bottom of fine sand.

On Saturday, the 31st, steered W. ¼ N. W. At noon, we perceived a strong tide current running out from the Bay of Mobile, and placed our vessels across it, supposing that there must be deep water, and we sent our shallops to make soundings; they found but eight fathoms. Afterwards we made use of their services when we had passed over the current. At ten o'clock we anchored in ten fathoms of water, hard bottom. M. SAUVOL DE LA VILLANTRAY, and a pilot, were detached with two long-boats to make the soundings in the Bay of Mobile. At six o'clock the larger of the long-boats grounded, the tide having cast her on a sand-bank. She fired several guns, but we only saw the flash of them. After a short time she was hauled off. The wind was all night fresh from the S. E., and two hours after daylight, we sailed to the S. S. W., the rain pouring down in torrents. We could not come about to the wind, although the breeze was very fresh, by reason of the strong currents, which bore to the S. E.

On Sunday, February the 1st, our felucca having returned from making its reconnaissance, said they found no water, according to the report made by M. DE L'ESQUELET. Nevertheless, when this gentleman arrived on board, he stated that he found five fathoms, which caused M. D'IBERVILLE to go himself and make an examination in company with M. DE SAUVOL. The two long-boats were obliged to come to anchor on account of the strong currents and south-westerly winds, which drove them towards shore. We weighed anchor and hoisted our two topsails, in order to clear a reef, which extended from the main land, over which the seas were breaking; within was a small island, lying east and west from the cape, making out from the Bay of Mobile. There are two other islets farther in, and about three leagues distant from the main land. During the twenty-four hours the winds have been variable, with heavy rain and fog, with a prospect of bad weather. On Monday, the 2d, the wind continued east, with constant rain. At midnight the wind veered to the west, when we payed out more cable. On Tuesday, the 3d, the wind continued westward, with foul weather, rough sea, and cold. Towards noon the weather moderated, and by evening the wind changed to the northwest, in which direction it continued all night. On Wednesday, the 4th, brisk wind N. N. W. At eleven o'clock, M. D'IBERVILLE came on board. He had been absent since Sunday, and was unable to reach the shipping on account of the boisterous weather. He reported but twelve feet of water in the pass, which is tortuous; but within he found

five fathoms. He saw a large lake, into which a river emptied. The tide ebbed and flowed therein. The tides flowed N. W. by S. W. The river ran with such rapid current that its waters were charged with sediment. They brought down large pine trees of a size admirably adapted for masts. Our men killed several water-fowls, and found some Indian cabins. Upon one of the islands they also found a stranded pirogue, several earthen pots, and a large quantity of human bones, the result, probably, of some battle fought there. The Indians, who visit this coast, belong to wandering tribes. When they are satiated with flesh, they come to the seashore for fish which is there found in abundance. Our people caught some that weighed at least twenty pounds.

At one o'clock P. M., the Badine hoisted the Dutch flag as a signal for us to get under way. We raised our light anchor, which we had cast to the S. E., for fear of entangling the larger one, and by two o'clock were under full sail with a brisk breeze from the north, and a clear sky. We steered W. ¼ S. W.; at four o'clock the wind continuing W. S. W., we bore closer on, and steered north. At sundown, we noticed the variation of the compass, which was one degree. At six o'clock we anchored in fourteen fathoms, bottom sandy mud. At three o'clock A. M., we took the height of the polar star, the hour at which it passes its meridian above the pole. We were at this time about three leagues westward of the bay of Mobile, all the while the wind blowing briskly from the north, with weather clear and cold.

The bay, called "Mobile" (Mauvila) by the Spaniards, is,

according to our observations, situated in latitude 30 north, and longitude 283 26 west. On Thursday, the 5th, we weighed anchor, and with a light northerly wind, we steered W. ¼ S. W., and at noon we took the meridian and found 29 50. At six o'clock, the look-out at mast-head discovered several islands* in the bay of Mobile. On Friday, the 6th, in the morning, the long-boat of the Badine was sent out to reconnoiter a pass which was seen between the islands mentioned, and the main land. The François and long-boats made sail to join us. At nine o'clock we came to anchor, wind north, and the cape bearing W. N. W. At four o'clock we steered W. S. W. to keep away from shore. At sundown the point of the island bore N. N. W. at a distance of four leagues. We came to anchor at six o'clock in eleven fathoms of water, bottom muddy sand. The gun-boat touched upon the island with the intention of reconnoitering other islands in the morning, beyond which we desired to find anchorage. This island we speak of, is in latitude 30 and longitude 282 34. On the 7th, we weighed anchor, steering W. S. W., fine weather, but made no discoveries. On Sunday, the 8th, M. DE SURGÈRES went in the felucca to examine an island lying to the N. W., and the long boat went to sound a pass W. N. W. On Monday, the 9th, we weighed anchor, wind to the east, and hoisted our main and mizzen topsails to

* These islands were afterwards named by M. D'IBERVILLE, Dauphin , Horn and Dog Island; the first (Dauphin) became the seat of the French colony after its removal from Biloxi, in 1702.

reach the anchorage to the south of an island, where one of the long-boats had gone to take

soundings for us. At noon we came to anchor in seven fathom of water, muddy bottom, one league and a half south of the island. On Tuesday, the 10th, wind east, slight breeze, went to an anchorage north of the island discovered by M. DE SURGÈRES* the day before. On Wednesday and Thursday, the weather was nearly the same, with a cold north wind. On Friday, the 13th, M. D'IBERVILLE, having seen the Indians kindling fires upon the larger island three leagues to the north, took with him Father ANASTASIUS+ to make them a visit. They landed in a gun-boat and a bark-canoe, in which the Canadians had descended the Mississippi. We landed at two o'clock P.M., and saw the tracks of the Indians who had left since morning, and tented here.

On Saturday, the 14th, having breakfasted, we marched along the shore. M. D'IBERVILLE and his Indian guide at the same time perceived the tracks of two savages who had

* Afterwards called "Surgères," but is now "Ship Island," and about nine miles from Mississippi City. In the report of M. HUBERT on Pensacola, Mobile, and Dauphin Island in 1721, he recommends "Ship Island" as the best harbor on the coast of Louisiana, and the best harbor for a naval station and ships of war.

+ Father ANASTASIUS DOUAY RECOLLECT--we know but little of his history previous to his coming to Louisiana with M. DE LA SALLE in 1684, and who returned to France with M. JOUTEL, the historian of that expedition, after the tragical death of Sieur DE LA SALLE. Father DOUAY returned to Louisiana in the expedition with M. D'IBERVILLE, in 1698, and wrote an account of the attempt made by LA SALLE to reach the Mississippi in 1684. (See Historical Collections of Louisiana, first series, vol. 1, pp. 85-193.)

come from their hiding-place. He returned to our fire, took two hatchets, four knives, some beads, vermilion, and two pipes filled with tobacco, as presents, and to show them that our intentions were peaceable. The shallops and bark kept along the shore, while M. D'IBERVILLE, his Indian guide, and Father ANASTASIUS walked on foot. At some distance they saw three Indians who took flight in their canoes; seeing which M. D'IBERVILLE also took to his canoe and forced them on shore. Two made good their escape, but the third, who was old and sickly, fell into his hands. Presents were given to him, and he was made to understand that our mission was friendly and not warlike. The Indian appeared to comprehend and be well satisfied. M. D'IBERVILLE added that he was going to tent a short distance from this spot; he made a sign for us to go on shore and kindle a fire for him, which we did with pleasure. His thigh was badly diseased. Some of our men who had gone out to hunt, surprised an old woman who had concealed herself. They conducted her to the old man where we were. She was nearly frightened to death. We gave her some presents, and she saw how well we treated the old man, who promised that so soon as his people returned he would make them pull some Indian corn for us. We left them together and returned to our cabin. The old woman visited the Indians that same evening and told them all that had happened.

On Sunday morning the 15th, M. D'IBERVILLE and Father ANASTASIUS went again to visit the old man; but unfortunately the fire having caught to the dry grass near

him, he found it difficult to remove himself. We laid the poor creature upon a bear's skin, where he expired within a half hour, before our eyes. Hearing the others approaching us with songs we waited for them some time, but through fear, they would not come near us. We then returned to our cabin. At 6 o'clock they encountered our hunters, who gained their confidence so far as to get their consent to come with them. They came dancing and singing, holding in their hand a large club, which appeared to be an instrument of war. We embraced them after their manner, by rubbing their stomach; after which we gave them pipes and presents of every description. Then M. D'IBERVILLE sent for the large brass kettle, that we might dine together. Two old women pulled the ears of corn to feast us in return. They called us their allies, and taught us some words of their language, after which we returned to our cabin.

CHAPTER III.

ON Monday, the 16th, the shallop kept along shore, whilst M. D'IBERVILLE, his brother, DE BIENVILLE, Father ANASTASIUS, and some others, went to visit their cabins, which our men had discovered the day before. We crossed some difficult marshes, and two of our men, who were in advance, fired their pistols to notify us that we were approaching their cabins, which we entered in a short time thereafter. We made presents to such of them as had not yet received any. They proposed to accompany us in the shallop and to leave with them three of our men, which was agreed to. M. D'IBERVILLE left among them his brother BIENVILLE, and took with him three Indians. We arrived on board the ships at three o'clock in the afternoon, when, having feasted them and made them considerable presents, they went to rest. On Tuesday, the 17th, we showed them the various manuvres of our vessels and of the guns. We even fired round shot. They could not comprehend the scene before them, but were filled with astonishment.

The next day M. D'IBERVILLE reconducted them to their

cabins. There was a pleasant breeze from the south, and when he arrived at the shore all the savages were assembled waiting to receive and smoke the calumet with him. He made them additional presents, and passed the whole of Wednesday, the 18th, with them. These Indians told M. D'IBERVILLE that they detested the Spaniards, and promised him that they and their allies, the Oumas and Tangibaos, with whom our people became acquainted afterward, in descending the Mississippi, would accompany him. They proposed to go on a hunt for the purpose of supplying us with game for a grand feast; that buffaloes,* deer, and wild turkeys were abundant about ten leagues distant, and in three days they would return, when they would kindle a large fire as a signal, which should be answered by us with three guns.

On the 19th M. D'IBERVILLE returned on board and related what transpired, as before mentioned, at which we were greatly rejoiced. The object which most astonished them was the spy-glass. They could not comprehend how we could see distinctly objects so far distant from each other. Brandy, which was set on fire, and which we afterward drank, appeared to them a thing no less extraordinary. They promised, after the feast, to go with us to the Mississippi. They said the first time we had fired our gun they heard us, and came down to the sea-shore; and added that

* For more than a century past the American buffalo (Bos Americanus) has not been seen east of the Mississippi river, and is now only to be found in the Far West, where they are also fast disappearing in certain localities.

they were at war with the Ouinnipissas, who dwelt about twenty-five leagues up the Mississippi , and they knew that M. DE LA SALLE had fought against them.

On Saturday, the 21st February, the Marquis of CHATEAUMORAND set sail for St. Domingo.* At noon we saw the fire in the place indicated by the Indians, and so soon

* Extract from a letter written by an officer on board the squadron commanded by the Marquis DE CHATEAUMORAND, dated St. Domingo, April 1, 1699, addressed to a friend in Paris:

"The commander of this squadron, the Marquis DE CHATEAUMORAND, received orders several months ago from the King, through M. DE COSSE, governor of this island, to join the squadron of M. D'IBERVILLE as soon as he arrived at St. Domingo, in order to execute conjointly with him the sealed instructions of the Court, but not to be opened until after they had left St. Domingo; as the object of the expedition was not to be known until after the entrance of the mouth of the Mississippi, which the late Sieur DE LA SALLE, from Canada. had discovered in 1682, and which he had subsequently failed to find three years later, when he was authorized by the King to establish a settlement on the banks of the Mississippi (Colbert). It was with the view of carrying out the plans of the King and Court that M. D'IBERVILLE, a (Canadian) naval officer of distinction, originally from Normandy, touched at St. Domingo several months ago.

"Dispatches have, fortunately, since arrived by a courier, in advance, that M. D'IBERVILLE has entered the mouth of the Mississippi, but before he ascended it he found the Spaniards had already taken possession of Pensacola, and fortified themselves in two towers or forts, and planted posts on which their flags could be seen at a great distance. Our commander wished to oust them, but as the forces were nearly equal, and any contest between the two nations must have resulted disadvantageous to our pretensions, as the law of primo occupanti (the first occupant) must prevail, the Spanish and French commanders came to an amicable agreement that each should settle a colony where they pleased, and build forts for the protection of colonists.

"M. D'IBERVILLE and the Marquis DE CHATEAUMORAND will report, on their arrival in France, an account of their successful expedition to the King and Court, which has given much satisfaction here."

as M. D'IBERVILLE had dined on board the Marin, he ordered three guns to be fired, and toward evening, the long-boats being in readiness, two additional guns were fired as a signal for landing. On Sunday, the 22d, M. D'IBERVILLE, M. L'ESQUELET, lieutenant of the Badine, and all the Canadians belonging to his corps; M. DE SURGÈRES, M. DE SAUVOL, ensign of the Marin, with the Canadians of his party, departed at seven o'clock for the feast, with the wind east. On Monday, 23d, and Tuesday, 24th, the wind blew strongly from the north, which prevented the Indians from visiting us as was expected.

On Wednesday, 25th, M. DE SURGÈRES, M. L'ESQUELET, and M. DE SAUVOL DE VILLANTRAY returned at four o'clock, M. D'IBERVILLE having remained to wait for the savages, who had just arrived. The two feluccas were prepared for the purpose of starting on an exploring expedition to the Pascagoula river in the morning, and were provisioned for ten or twelve days. MM. DE SAUVOL DE LA VILLANTRAY and DES OURDYS, ensigns, and CHATEAU, pilot, formed a part of the expedition, and sounding around our ships, where we found from seventeen feet to five fathoms of water.

On Thursday, the 26th, the expedition took its course for the river (Pascagoula), which was eastward of our ships. They first went on shore to receive orders from M. D'IBERVILLE. The river they visited is situated ten leagues E. by N. E. of the island where we were anchored. They found to the N. E. of this an island which extended S. E. and N. W

one league, inside of which there were three fathoms of water, where the ships could enter secure against all winds. An excellent place was also found where supplies of wood and water could be obtained, at a distance of about two leagues from the mainland. From this place to the river the water is very shallow. The mouths of the river were about a league apart. It divides into four branches, which form two islets at the outlets. M. D'IBERVILLE returned from shore, where he had remained for some time, hoping to meet with some Indians who could give him information relative to the Mississippi river.

On Friday, the 27th, M. D'IBERVILLE, with his brother, M. DE BIENVILLE, and twenty men embarked in one of the long-boats. M. DE SAUVOL DE LA VILLANTRAY, lieutenant of the Marin, with Father ANASTASIUS, the Recollect, CHATEAU, the pilot, and twenty men, embarked in the other; making all together a force of fifty-one men, part Canadians, part filibusters whom we had taken on board at St. Domingo, and who were to remain in case we found a suitable place for a settlement. We were provisioned for twenty days, and were armed with guns, pistols, sabers, swords, bayonets, and two swivels in each long-boat, to defend ourselves against any insult the natives might offer in the course of our discoveries.

At nine o'clock the same day, at a given signal, we set sail, attended each by a bark canoe. Wind strong from the S. E., weather cloudy; sailed S. W. ¼ W. during our maritime watch (horlage), afterward, the wind hauling south, S. E.,

in order to pass clear of an island lying two leagues west of where we were anchored. To the south of this island we found deep water, with a rough sea. Continuing our route S. W., we found four small islands, composed of sand, lying close together, extending north and south. We sounded around them for the space of a quarter of a league, and found scarcely two feet of water. The sea was very beautiful t